Bioengineered beauty

California-based BoltThreads is also looking to biology to elevate skincare. They launched their new bioengineered skincare line Eighteen B in March 2019, debuting two skincare products created with their trademark ‘B-silk’ protein, which is made by fermenting yeast, water, sugar, and salt to produce a natural silk substance. While most silk proteins used in skincare are hydrolyzed – which decreases the effectiveness – Eighteen B has engineered a whole, unprocessed protein “without compromising its molecular structure, delivering more benefits, for better results,” the brand explains. As a result, the protein “complements the vital functions of your skin and reinforces its extracellular matrix (aka collagen and elastin).” The nontoxic beauty brand sits at the luxury end of the market, with its Revitalizing Hydrogel Moisturizer priced at $75 and its Hydrate + Restore Rich cream at $95.

Ginkgo BioWorks in Boston is another company genetically engineering yeast for beauty purposes. Since 2017 the brand has been working with French flavor and fragrance manufacturer Robertet, to develop a ‘cultured rose’ which Ginkgo describes as “a rosy mixture of floral, sweet, and spicy scents – made from yeast” through fermentation. By engineering the yeast with enzymes from various flowers and fruits, Ginkgo have found that the cultured strains can produce larger unique varieties of flavors and fragrances, unlocking a whole new realm of scents for perfumers and flavorists to explore, allowing fragrance companies like Robertet can now have their own specially designed ‘varietal’ of flower.